Friday, May 19, 2017

Tutorial: Lowering The Dart After Making A Full Bust Adjustment on McCall 7575

This post is to illustrate how to do a FBA on a regular one piece front pattern for a shirt.  Last week I purchased McCall 7575 Palmer Pletsch pattern because of the style lines.  The illustration shows a "fit and flare" silhouette.  Secondly, the use of the striped fabric is appealing to me.  The front band and the cuffs are cut on the bias.  I wouldn't have thought to do that for fear of the fabric stretching.  Thirdly, the sleeve is a two piece sleeve, more commonly seen in jackets.  

Anyway, I wanted to share the process of doing a FBA and lowering a dart with a slight rotation. This first picture shows the pattern envelope over the front with the FBA.



Step 1 - Slash the pattern along lines 1, 2, and 3.  Then spread the appropriate amount based on your measurement.  If the width needed is more than an inch, consider using the second leg of line 1 to create a "Y" as illustrated below.  Fill the areas with tissue paper and tape to hold the adjustment in place.  I typical don't redraw the vertical waist dart until I test to see where the dart should be placed.  In this case I may make two darts instead of one.


Step 2 - Once that is done, test to see where the bust dart falls by placing the tissue pattern against your body.  Determine how much you need to move the dart.  On the cutting table, draw three lines around the dart.  Then cut along those lines.




Step 3 -  Move the dart to the appropriate location on the front shirt.  This step will leave an opening in the tissue pattern. Before taping the dart in place, determine how you want the dart to be formed and place.  I chose to slightly rotate the dart with the outer edge rotated slightly downward.


Step 5 -  Fill the open space with tissue paper and tape in place.  Next, true up the outer edge along the side.


Step 6 -  Cut away the excess tissue paper. Now you are ready to tissue fit or make a muslin.




Happy Fitting!
Cennetta

13 comments:

  1. This is nice Cennetta! Could you explain when you need to do a FBA? Thank you

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    1. Data, a FBA is needed when the front bodice, dress, or top is too tight across the bust area.

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  2. Thank you so much for showing such clear steps and detailing this fitting adjustment. I have admired your blog for years and have learned so much from the details you show. Thank you so much for the quality of sewing you demonstrate. You always inspire me to try a technique I may not feel confident about.
    Thank you
    Marie

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  3. Your visual & comments help so much -thanks !!!!

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  4. This is a very helpful post. I do have one question - how do you re-draw the vertical dart?

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    1. Thanks, Lady Rosamond. I usually wait until I make a muslin before I place the vertical dart. Then I just make the dart in the most appropriate location of the front of the shirt. It's a basic fisheye dart. The depth and length depends on how you want it to fit.

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    3. Lady Rosamond, I thought about your question some more. If you are wondering where to start the vertical dart, it should start about an 1" below the apex and continue to the hem of the shirt. Thanks and I hope that this answers your question.

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  5. Great pictorial and Thanks for sharing.

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  6. Great post Cennetta. You make moving that bust dart down look easy.

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